project dirt cheep

[Evil Queen]

Originally Posted by BIGBEN

is there something wrong when you get excited.

Nope...sounds like it's all working to me?

[BIGBEN]

well, got the last piece of tube i needed for the rear three link today. how many times can you get a 2' piece of 2.25 DOM with a .375 wall cut for you for free.

i have a plan to move my license plate to the tailgate now that i have the drop down conversion done. but that will have to wait until i get back from spring break.

also going to be getting my rear corners after spring break. i had to wait until my friend went home and got them. they are made for a yj so i will have some fun reworking the gas filler location on the jeep. i think i am going to keep the yj location on the back and just rework the tj filler tube to match.

[BIGBEN]

one of these is finding its way into my parts pile.



novak sift linkage

[BIGBEN]

here is how the axle sits after today.



a few shots of my truss and bridge bracing.







and my new "chin" guard for the front cover.

[jsawduste]

Ben, Looks good. Very nice job.

Question for you. Have you designed the truss and chin guard with the pinion parallel to the floor or with the pinion pointed up 16-18 degrees or so ? If parallel I can see the chin guard hanging way down and the truss perhaps hitting the fuel tank when the pinion gets rotated up.

[BIGBEN]

Originally Posted by jsawduste

Ben, Looks good. Very nice job.

Question for you. Have you designed the truss and chin guard with the pinion parallel to the floor or with the pinion pointed up 16-18 degrees or so ? If parallel I can see the chin guard hanging way down and the truss perhaps hitting the fuel tank when the pinion gets rotated up.

if this truss hits the gas tank i have a whole lot of problems. this is the front axle.

and to answer the question, the truss is flat with the caster set at about 6 degree. i didn't cut and turn to adjust the pinion so it will be whatever is stock for an 80 waggy. and the cover guard won't hang any lower than the bottom of the diff casting.

when i do the rear axle the pinion will be set to point at the t case and then the mounts and truss will be set flat from there. i am thinking about the gas tank clearance seeing i want to push the rear axle back about an inch or so.

[BIGBEN]

todays progress. i got the knuckles assembled onto the axle and the tie rod cut to length. the only clearance problem i have is with the steering stabilizer mount on the passenger spring perch. going to have to cut it off and figure out a new place to mount it seeing the stock location won't work. otherwise the steering clears the diff cover and all other brackets with at least a 1/4 inch gap. pics tomorrow when i weld the last few things together.

maybe i will just push forward with the hydro assist instead of the stabilizer.

[BIGBEN]

steering is on, which means front axle is as done as i can get it right now. besides paint. the rest of the work has to be done in vehicle to make sure everything will clear.

i did see that i may have a contact problem with the steering hitting the track bar at a full right turn. i may just have to redesign both track bar mounts (axle and frame) and make a fully custom setup. we shall see what happens upon install.

and now on to the pics. here she sits in all her unpainted glory.



here is my diff cover clearance at a left turn.



and clearance at a right turn.



and an overall left turn pic.



and a couple shots of the steering knuckle. you can really see how high the steering sits on the axle.




now i just need to haul the rear axle in monday and get started on it.

[Beefy]

Nice work Ben I should drop off my 60

[BIGBEN]

Originally Posted by Beefy

Nice work Ben I should drop off my 60

maybe i should give up on the weld engineer thing and go work with chop at sinister.

[thrca]

maybe its just the angle of the picture, but did you not put cone spacers on the tie rod? Will it not bind when you articulate the axle?

Also, are you planning on using castellated nuts on that or what was your thought for preventing the nut from coming off?

[BIGBEN]

Originally Posted by thrca

maybe its just the angle of the picture, but did you not put cone spacers on the tie rod? Will it not bind when you articulate the axle?

Also, are you planning on using castellated nuts on that or what was your thought for preventing the nut from coming off?

as the axle articulates the tie rod never really moves up or down. only the drag link needs the cone spacers. the tie rod has plenty of clearance on the heims through the entire range of steering right now.

and i have lock washers on there but am thinking of finding some lock nuts to go with them. i really don't want to try and drill a grade 8 bolt to put the cotter pin through the castle nut.

[thrca]

I mis-spoke.. I meant locknut (Prevailing Torque Lock Nut, the ones with the slightly off round on one side)

And good call on the tie rod.. I had to think about it for a few minutes but realized what you mean, the knuckles dont move relative to each other. This will save me some space on my build.. I hadnt thought that through.

[thrca]

Originally Posted by BIGBEN

i really don't want to try and drill a grade 8 bolt to put the cotter pin through the castle nut.

I was thinking of torquing it down, marking it, and letting a machine shop drill them for me.. Im still trying to decide if I am comfortable with just a lock nut.

[BIGBEN]

Originally Posted by thrca

I was thinking of torquing it down, marking it, and letting a machine shop drill them for me.. Im still trying to decide if I am comfortable with just a lock nut.

i figure the lock nut stacked with a lock washer should work. i don't think that will ever loosen especially since the bolt is through two mounting points. the bolt doesn't have the ability to rock any in its mounts.

i am going to be a little anal at first about checking torques on this build. seeing most of the suspension i am redesigning i am a little worried about things coming apart.