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Thrca's Project: N.W.O. - Page 3

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  1. #41
    UberGeek thrca's Avatar
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    Got my bumper from xj4life... All I have to say is wow! Top notch construction, can't wait to get it installed.
    thrca
    98 TJ 4.0L LP Gas
    14B Spooled/D60 5.38s
    Long Arms, 16" Air Shocks, 40" IROKs
    Ignore above.. Its a WIP, in the garage.

  2. #42
    UberGeek thrca's Avatar
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    I started ordering parts to build my new steering setup. All in all, I think I will be at about $290 when I am done with the steering, but it should be slightly more robust than the stock setup. It should also be slightly more robust than any of the <$300 aftermarket setups, so if you were going to ask why, thats part of your answer.

    I also just enjoy building things and saying I built them.

    At any rate, so here is the parts list:
    (2) 3/4-16 RH Chromoly Weld In Bung
    (2) 3/4-16 LH Chromoly Weld In Bung
    (2) 3/4-16 RH Jam Nut
    (3) 3/4-16 LH Jam Nut
    (2) 2in RH Johnny Joint
    (2) 2in LH Johnny Joint
    (1) 2in Johnny Joint Rebuild Parts
    (1) Currie Steering Stabilizer Bracket (may just build)
    (1) 3/4-16 Heim Joint Adjuster
    (1) Adjustable Tie-Rod Adapter Stud to Heim
    90 Inches of 4130 Chromoly 1-1/4 x 0.120 tube
    12 x 12ish piece of 1/2 mild steel plate
    12 x 12ish piece of 1/4 mild steel plate

    The plate will be used to build some extensions to the steering knuckles so that I can mount the drag link and the tie rods to the knuckles without interfering with the sway bar link mounts and stuff, as well as doing away with the inverted Y steering setup.

    I hope that after all is said and done, I will have accomplished a couple things: Upgrade that wont bend when driving over small rocks, Reduce or eliminate steering backlash, reduce or eliminate bump steer, have fun building steering.
    Last edited by thrca; 09-13-2009 at 12:59 AM.
    thrca
    98 TJ 4.0L LP Gas
    14B Spooled/D60 5.38s
    Long Arms, 16" Air Shocks, 40" IROKs
    Ignore above.. Its a WIP, in the garage.

  3. #43
    UberGeek thrca's Avatar
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    I have been tossing a couple designs around, and decided to replace the following parts with Johnny Joints instead.
    (8) Cone Spacers
    (2) 3/4-16 RH HD Shank Heim Rod End
    (2) 3/4-16 LH HD Shank Heim Rod End

    The reason I did this, was after the cone spacers and everything was in, the mounting width was very close to the JJs. Additionally, the JJs are rebuildable with the same rebuild kit, so regardless of whether I wear out a LH or RH thread, only 1 spare is required as opposed to 1 each for the heims. The JJs are greasable with poly bushings, so they shouldnt transfer as much noise to the chassis.

    I may also build a track bar while I am at it, since I basically need the same parts for it.

    Additionally, I am considering sleeving the tie-rod with 1.5 x 0.120 mild steel, but I may save this for later in the event I damage the tie rod. Any thoughts on needing this when using 4130 for the tie rod?
    thrca
    98 TJ 4.0L LP Gas
    14B Spooled/D60 5.38s
    Long Arms, 16" Air Shocks, 40" IROKs
    Ignore above.. Its a WIP, in the garage.

  4. #44
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    johnny joint at the pitman arm and passenger knuckle on the drag link, heim joints on the tie rod?

  5. #45
    UberGeek thrca's Avatar
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    I was actually going to use JJ on all 4.. Do you see a problem with that plan?
    thrca
    98 TJ 4.0L LP Gas
    14B Spooled/D60 5.38s
    Long Arms, 16" Air Shocks, 40" IROKs
    Ignore above.. Its a WIP, in the garage.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by thrca View Post
    I was actually going to use JJ on all 4.. Do you see a problem with that plan?
    wow, i can't do math.

    2 LH + 2 RH = 4

    i only saw 2 JJ total


    the only problem i see with the 2in JJ is the bolt size is limited to 7/16.

  7. #47
    UberGeek thrca's Avatar
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    I thought about that.. I could always move up to 2.5in JJ and adjust the rest of my parts accordingly. Do you think the 7/16in bolts wont be strong enough? The 2.5in JJ uses 9/16in bolts
    thrca
    98 TJ 4.0L LP Gas
    14B Spooled/D60 5.38s
    Long Arms, 16" Air Shocks, 40" IROKs
    Ignore above.. Its a WIP, in the garage.

  8. #48
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    the problem of moving up to the bigger JJ is the 1in shank dia. you either have to move up in tube dia for the weld in adapter or run a thicker wall tube and tap the ends. i wouldn't want all the force on only a 7/16 bolt. look at the dia of the threads on a tie rod end. then looking at the size of the taper and it is all over 7/16

    and as to the rebuildable idea, tie rod ends are non-rebuildable. so running a heim joint is just the same in that respect. you do loose the greasable aspect but it is a sacrifice you make for the strength. you could always build it using stronger tie rod ends and keep the greasable parts. and you could always find them at parts stores if you break one.

    what i am planning is this.

    7/8 heims with spacers to use 3/4 bolts. 1.5 in .25 wall DOM drag link and 1.5 in .25 wall 4130 tie rod.

    overkill but i shouldn't break it.

  9. #49
    UberGeek thrca's Avatar
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    I could go to the 2.5in JJ with 1.5 x 0.120 4130 or 1.75 x 0.250 DOM, since the bungs are for 1.25ID tube. Nice thing about doing this, is now the JJs match what I was planning on using for my longarms, so now 1 rebuild kit would cover both my steering and my long arms setup.
    thrca
    98 TJ 4.0L LP Gas
    14B Spooled/D60 5.38s
    Long Arms, 16" Air Shocks, 40" IROKs
    Ignore above.. Its a WIP, in the garage.

  10. #50
    UberGeek thrca's Avatar
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    I think I will go back to the original plan of the HD Shank Heim Joints with 5/8 through bolts, along with the cone spacers. I think I can get away with using over/under for the drag/tie on the passenger side without building extensions, then I can use the 5/8 tie-rod adapter stud to heim on the driver side and pitman arm. The only one to drill out would be the passenger side tapered hole to 5/8.

    If I dont use the tie rod adapter studs, I would have to drill out all 3 to 5/8 holes, and put in 5/8 bolts for all.
    thrca
    98 TJ 4.0L LP Gas
    14B Spooled/D60 5.38s
    Long Arms, 16" Air Shocks, 40" IROKs
    Ignore above.. Its a WIP, in the garage.

  11. #51
    RockStar
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    So do we get updates with pictures soon? or the work pictures?

  12. #52
    UberGeek thrca's Avatar
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    Yep, after I start working on it.. I am still in design mode and getting the parts for it.
    thrca
    98 TJ 4.0L LP Gas
    14B Spooled/D60 5.38s
    Long Arms, 16" Air Shocks, 40" IROKs
    Ignore above.. Its a WIP, in the garage.

  13. #53
    UberGeek thrca's Avatar
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    So, Joints, Jam Nuts, Studs, Cone Spacers, etc. are all on their way. Adjuster is already in hand. Going to pick up DOM this week, so you will all get to start seeing pictures shortly.
    thrca
    98 TJ 4.0L LP Gas
    14B Spooled/D60 5.38s
    Long Arms, 16" Air Shocks, 40" IROKs
    Ignore above.. Its a WIP, in the garage.

  14. #54
    UberGeek thrca's Avatar
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    Bumper painted and installed... Pictures tomorrow.
    thrca
    98 TJ 4.0L LP Gas
    14B Spooled/D60 5.38s
    Long Arms, 16" Air Shocks, 40" IROKs
    Ignore above.. Its a WIP, in the garage.

  15. #55
    UberGeek thrca's Avatar
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    Radiator Swap from a couple weeks ago...
    Old radiator to be replaced...


    Crack next to filler


    And typical OEM radiator leakage


    LOOOOOONG overdue for a flush


    Fan Shroud unbolted


    Out with the old... halfway there.


    Can't possible cool very well full of mud.


    The new one looks much nicer.


    And in with the new...
    thrca
    98 TJ 4.0L LP Gas
    14B Spooled/D60 5.38s
    Long Arms, 16" Air Shocks, 40" IROKs
    Ignore above.. Its a WIP, in the garage.

  16. #56
    UberGeek thrca's Avatar
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    Front Bumper

    All painted with Rustoleum Hammered Black Metallic


    Old removal


    Wire brushed the bolt holes on the crossmember to get ready for its new skin


    And some new hardware, since the T55 Torx must go.. Thank god.


    All done...


    Zoomed out.. All done...
    thrca
    98 TJ 4.0L LP Gas
    14B Spooled/D60 5.38s
    Long Arms, 16" Air Shocks, 40" IROKs
    Ignore above.. Its a WIP, in the garage.

  17. #57
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    i have to say it, i hope that is grade 8 hardware for the bumper.

  18. #58
    UberGeek thrca's Avatar
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    Astute observation. Actually, no. These are grade 5 hardware. I do not blindly overbuild things, nor do I blindly underbuild things. Here is the math I used to determine the bolt grade.

    The reason: If I ever have to remove them the hard way, I would like to be able to.

    Grade 5 1/2-13 proof strength
    Pi(0.407/2)^2 * 85000psi = 11058 lbs each, with 3 per side, minus a little directional physics is about 15 tons pulling force on each D-Ring, which would exceed the clevis before the bolts, however this is the minimum grade I go on bolts.

    Grade 8 1/2-13 proof strength
    Pi(0.407/2)^2 * 120000psi = 15612 lbs each, with 3 per side, minus a little directional physics is about 23 tons pulling force on each D-Ring, which would FAR exceed the clevis, and I would prefer one of the bolts disintigrate before the clevis breaks and smashes out a face or something.
    thrca
    98 TJ 4.0L LP Gas
    14B Spooled/D60 5.38s
    Long Arms, 16" Air Shocks, 40" IROKs
    Ignore above.. Its a WIP, in the garage.

  19. #59
    One Eye Fabworks Beefy's Avatar
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    Nice work!

    Dakota truggy on tons 43" sx's and coil overs
    07 CTD Tow Pig

  20. #60
    UberGeek thrca's Avatar
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    In addition, the proper torque for the grade 8 bolts was much higher than I could generate with the amount of clearance and space I had, so I imagine an undertorqued grade 8 bolt probably loses a lot of its strength properties.
    thrca
    98 TJ 4.0L LP Gas
    14B Spooled/D60 5.38s
    Long Arms, 16" Air Shocks, 40" IROKs
    Ignore above.. Its a WIP, in the garage.

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