welding up a diff

[sglide]

pull the cover and clean everything with break cleaner, let dry

Dont pull the axle shafts, leave them in until your all tacked up.
it doesn't happen often, but you can have the weld pull the side gears to one side or the other during tacking which will cause big problems down the road, leaving the shafts in during tack up will help to prevent this

using a 60xx rod tack the spiders to the carrier first, tack one side of a spider, then rotate the dif and tack the other side of the same spider to help the weld pull evenly.
then do the other spider the same way.
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p37/sglide/IMG_0021.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p37/sglide/IMG_0022.jpg

next tack the side gear to the carrier using the same pattern of rotating, when your tacking burn your tacks in good, the gears are hardened and will want to crack your tacks if you don't get enough on them
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p37/sglide/IMG_0023.jpg

if the axle is still under the truck now is a good time to pull the carrier out of the axle so you can bench weld it.
with the 60xx rod weld the spiders to the carrier, then the side gears top the carrier, then the side gears to the spiders.
try to use the same pattern you tacked up with as this will keep the heat as even as possible across the work
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p37/sglide/IMG_0024.jpg

clean as much of the slag off as you can with a wire brush, you don't have to get crazy with the cleaning at this point, one of the reasons you use a 60xx rod is the next rod you will use will burn right through its slag with little to no ill effect

re weld everything in the same pattern using a 70XX rod, and let cool nice and slowly, do not quench with water or oil
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p37/sglide/IMG_0025.jpg

run the 70xx rod nice and slow trying to keep your build up as even as possible to minimize vibrations
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p37/sglide/IMG_0026.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p37/sglide/IMG_0027.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p37/sglide/IMG_0028.jpg




*notes*
1) this is for a Dana style axle setup
14bolts, 9", and yota style axles are done differently, and ill post them up if i get the chance in the future, but if you have questions on them feel free to pm me

2)the rods=
starting with a 60xx rod is a good idea because it will burn through any oil and grime that might still be in the dif, will fill the gaps faster and easier, and cleans up easy, but do not run this as you only rod, it is not torque and vibration friendly on its own, but run with a 70xx rod will make for one of the strongest welds possible

[mdswmich]

Nice writeup!

[sglide]

things i forgot to mention

never weld one up with out a ring gear, or somthing to protect the ring-carrier mating surface, if you get a BB or spatter there its bad.

i used a old ring gear that was not going back in the axle, if your welding it with the ring your going to use spray it down with anti-spatter spray so nothing sticks to it
if you dont have any and old school trick is to smoke the parts you dont want spattered up with acetaline, just light the torch and run it with no oxy, and get the gear nice and black, the smoke powder will protect the gear

[LuckyCharm4x4]

don't you worry about getting the bearings all gummed up or the inside of the diff?

~Bry

[spork]

nice. looks good. I still need to get mine over there so you can weld mine up

[CheapThrillB2]

have have always read to NOT weld them in the housing cause of slag getting in places it shouldn't be........

FWIW, been running a welded 8.8 for three years in three rigs and have NEVER had a problem with that axle. And i'm not easy on it by no means.

[Beefy]

don't you worry about getting the bearings all gummed up or the inside of the diff?

~Bry

x2

[xj97sport]

my welded rear end broke ... oh well 2 pounds of stick i shoulda expected the axel to snap (and no i didnt weld it)

[Rover]

the bearings in the pics were getting replaced so they wernt protected. you should cover them up if you are going to keep the bearings.

brake clean everything when your done and youll be fine

[pre4runner]

Nice little write up.

[sglide]

have have always read to NOT weld them in the housing cause of slag getting in places it shouldn't be........

FWIW, been running a welded 8.8 for three years in three rigs and have NEVER had a problem with that axle. And i'm not easy on it by no means.as a rule its best to remove it for welding for the very reason you stated, but for this one there was no need for me to as any where slage would be a problem was protected, and running my machine everyday, and the rod selection on a dayly basis i know what my slag profile will be, so in this case there was no danger in welding it in the housing

my welded rear end broke ... oh well 2 pounds of stick i shoulda expected the axel to snap (and no i didnt weld it)more weld does not mean good weld

[Fullsize4life]

Welds look like shit Sam. Want some schooling? When i did mine i welded it with 7018 and 6010 also. So far so good. When we going to get to gether and do some wheeling?

[Beefy]

Welds look like shit Sam. Want some schooling? When i did mine i welded it with 7018 and 6010 also. So far so good. When we going to get to gether and do some wheeling?

:popcorn:

[rodolo]

Good write up

[Fullsize4life]

I was just joking sam. I really think your welds are nice. And your cute too!!!!!!

[sglide]

I was just joking sam. I really think your welds are nice. And your cute too!!!!!!
as ive told you many many times
i only like you as a friend:hehe:

[Death Trap Driver]

Great write up. 6010 root pass with a cover pass or two of 7018 fixes everything. It even adds traction to your rig!