How do you weld sheet metal?

[MuddyPaws 3.0]

Mother F-in sonofa......:eq::flip:

:sadpanda:

:eek:

http://static.flickr.com/26/49534404_9927a54284_m.jpg

http://www.funfilesandsmiles.com/wallpaper/angry.jpg

[sglide]

how thin is it
14 gage or thinner i tig
or i stick with 3/32 6010 in the stinger and 1718 with the flux knocked off in my other hand and feed both rods as fill
or mig around 17 volts and 180 wire speed

[MuddyPaws 3.0]

How thin is it? About this thin =

I dunno....it's the sheetmetal on the side of the XJ.

[MuddyPaws 3.0]

Ok, and all I know is wire welder, stick welder.

mig tig big sig.....means nothing to me :lol:

[sglide]

How thin is it? About this thin =

I dunno....it's the sheetmetal on the side of the XJ.proble 14 gage
use wire and gas, metal needs to be really clean, both sides
dont try to weld beads, spot weld it
hit the triger and let go, wait till you cant see glow with yu hood down and spot again
do a couple of spots every 6" down the seem then move back to where you started and do a couple of spots and move 6"
this will keep it from warping to badly and collecting to much heat cousing you to burn through

[MuddyPaws 3.0]

I forgot to tell you how I am welding...

Ok, this might be hard for sam to understand, but put your hands together like you are going to pray....:hehe:

Point your finger tips up.

Your 2 hands are the 2 pieces I am welding together. I have to weld them at the fingertips....except it's upside down in the wheel well.

Sounds easy eh?:lol:

[Mongo]

I would tooth pick it with 1/16 or call the welding teacher.

[Tonka]

how thin is it
14 gage or thinner i tig
or i stick with 3/32 6010 in the stinger and 1718 with the flux knocked off in my other hand and feed both rods as fill
or mig around 17 volts and 180 wire speed

I'm usually about 175 wire @ 17.2v with a lincoln electric power mig 350mp, it depends on what I am welding to what, and in what orientation

I do short sections and sometimes just tacks to avoid warping the sheetmetal.

[sglide]

yes its easy (well for me anyway)

ok first you are going to want to adjust the gas nozzle out a bit, you want the nozzle to be about 3/8s" past the wire feeder tip (if you can adjust it that far with out the defuzer holes showing)
your not going to turn down your heat or speed, use a practice peace ofsheet metal to set up your head running on the flat

to weld rest the nozzle aganst the praying fingertipslol
and pull triger for about one second (zzzt)
move 2" and repeat process the length of the weld
then back step
and repeat till its welded out
you will have some grinding to do
and most likely a bit of rewelding in spots
but youll get it

[Tonka]

proble 14 gage
use wire and gas, metal needs to be really clean, both sides
dont try to weld beads, spot weld it
hit the triger and let go, wait till you cant see glow with yu hood down and spot again
do a couple of spots every 6" down the seem then move back to where you started and do a couple of spots and move 6"
this will keep it from warping to badly and collecting to much heat cousing you to burn through

basically what I meant above

[Tonka]

proble 14 gage
use wire and gas, metal needs to be really clean, both sides
dont try to weld beads, spot weld it
hit the triger and let go, wait till you cant see glow with yu hood down and spot again
do a couple of spots every 6" down the seem then move back to where you started and do a couple of spots and move 6"
this will keep it from warping to badly and collecting to much heat cousing you to burn through

basically what I meant above.

Muddypaws: practic on some same sized scrap to dial in your voltage and speed settings. that way you get your settings dialed in before having to fill burn through holes, or grind high spots(more warping risk)

[Grandman]

If i cant hit it with the arc welder i braze it . My answer to every thing :flip:

[Shaker]

If I can't arc it or braze it. I get a old man to do it.:ptt:

[sglide]

basically what I meant aboveyup other than a water table setup its about all you can do for warpage

[MuddyPaws 3.0]

Ok, well...here I go to try again.

[user name]

I'd glue it together

[Sandals]

Duct Tape

[Tonka]

be sure to post pics:hehe:

I still have my comanche to repair since I learned the hard way not to use flux core wire:rolleyes:

Nothing beats out experience. It takes time.

I still have a ton of room for improvement

[StartingLine]

Don't they just glue that stuff from the factory? :hehe: A tube of Liquid Nails should hold it forever...

[MuddyPaws 3.0]

Pics as soon as I get home. I gave it a shot. I'll be home in a few minutes.

[sglide]

hury up

[MuddyPaws 3.0]

Ok...I suck at welding sheet metal. You know how long it will take to go all the way around the damn wheel well doing it 1 second at a time, 6 inches apart?

http://www.timstrader.com/web/builds/xj/rear-wheel-well/DSCF1399.JPG

http://www.timstrader.com/web/builds/xj/rear-wheel-well/DSCF1400.JPG

[Mongo]

I've seen worse. Much worse.

[sglide]

Ok...I suck at welding sheet metal. You know how long it will take to go all the way around the damn wheel well doing it 1 second at a time, 6 inches apart?

http://www.timstrader.com/web/builds/xj/rear-wheel-well/DSCF1399.JPG

http://www.timstrader.com/web/builds/xj/rear-wheel-well/DSCF1400.JPGyes i do know how long it will take:hehe:

[Mongo]

yes i do know how long it will take:hehe:

Not as long as an xj bumper.:hehe:

[StartingLine]

Get over it and keep at it. On the other hand, aren't those 2 pieces supposed to be screwed together? :hehe::flip:

[MuddyPaws 3.0]

It was spot welded.

I'm thinking it will be easier to stick some round stock, like 1/4 inch, between the 2 sheets and weld the sheets to the solid stock.

I tried a test piece like that, and it's real easy to weld the sheetmetal to 1/4 inch round stock.

[user name]

I was only kind of kidding about the glue I think they make some epoxy thats stronger than the factory spot welds and it seals against rust at the same time. I'm not really sure how much surface area you would get contact on there though. just a option most people probably don't think of.

[MuddyPaws 3.0]

I was only kind of kidding about the glue I think they make some epoxy thats stronger than the factory spot welds and it seals against rust at the same time. I'm not really sure how much surface area you would get contact on there though. just a option most people probably don't think of.

After welding this, I am planning on running a bead of that stuff from the inside, in the V there on the wheel wells. Just to help it stick and seal it. I have 2 tubes of the stuff. It's damn expensive though.

[Grandman]

Seriously Tim i did the same thing on the Grand , I used coated brazing rod and it took about 15 minutes aside . They never came apart , that area your welding is not going to warp very easily . Putting a cap on a door where you have an open run the lenght of the door is much harder to keep warping down .

[Beefy]

Tim, would you like a hand? I have welded thinner stuff on my old S-10... And even thinner stuff at the farm with arc welding lol

[Groundhog]

Looks good , the mud will cover it up anyways so dont worry.

[Mongo]

Looks good , the mud will cover it up anyways so dont worry.

Best point in the thread.

[MuddyPaws 3.0]

Looks good , the mud will cover it up anyways so dont worry.

I don't wheel. So the mud will be at a minimum.

[Beefy]

I don't wheel. So the mud will be at a minimum.

Needed to be quoted

[Tonka]

Tim, would you like a hand? I have welded thinner stuff on my old S-10... And even thinner stuff at the farm with arc welding lol

nah, he just needs a finger:hehe:

[MuddyPaws 3.0]

ha ha

[Beefy]

:hehe:

[Roadhouse]

nah, he just needs a finger:hehe:

:lol::lol::lol:

[MuddyPaws 3.0]

These are posted in another thread but thought they should go here too. Finally got the welding done.

http://www.timstrader.com/web/builds/xj/rear-wheel-well/DSCF1399.JPG

http://www.timstrader.com/web/builds/xj/rear-wheel-well/DSCF1400.JPG

http://www.timstrader.com/web/builds/xj/rear-wheel-well/DSCF1569.JPG

http://www.timstrader.com/web/builds/xj/rear-wheel-well/DSCF1570.JPG

http://www.timstrader.com/web/builds/xj/rear-wheel-well/DSCF1571.JPG

[sodapop]

Damn it took you so long to finish it got moldy!

[kicker]

JB Weld:dance2:

[Yetti]

looks good Tim

[MuddyPaws 3.0]

LOL...thanks. Man this is an old post though.

[Trucks are for girls!]

its odd looking at the old post of the jeep and thinking it used to look like that or that that was done to it...... lol