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jsawduste
04-02-2009, 08:17 AM
Side view
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P4010008.jpg

Picture of where I screwed up and cut BOTH ends of the top rail at 45*. Simple but effictive tailgate latch.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P4010002.jpg

Tailgate
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P4010007.jpg

Just a few pictures to start with.

General specs.
2 x 2 x 3/16 frame
3 x 3 x 3/16 tonque
3500 axle
37`s on Soft 8`s
XJ springs
YJ Spring Plates
TJ Shocks

48x60 with a 75 in track width. Same track as the Jeep.

Will post more later.

LuckyCharm4x4
04-02-2009, 08:30 AM
well that looks pretty darn cool! 2"? isn't that a little overkill?

~Bry

h8pvmnt
04-02-2009, 08:41 AM
Looks good J

well that looks pretty darn cool! 2"? isn't that a little overkill?

~Bry

Is there really such a thing? I thought that was like the Easter Bunny

kickstand
04-02-2009, 08:50 AM
looks cool....looks heavy

Haggar
04-02-2009, 09:30 AM
I believe it was steel he already had, so free.

I'll have to check the pics tonight :thumb: (can't see them at work)

jsawduste
04-02-2009, 09:43 AM
About a year ago I found a deal on some BIG triangles of 2 x 2 steel. Over the past summer I slowly worked out some plans and gather parts.

Some of the ideas came from.
http://www.redjeepclub.com/tech/offroadtrailer/offroadtrailer.php

Couple weeks ago my Dad and myself used a PortaBand and cut the triangles up into sticks.
Then after making sure I had a sturdy level surface to work off I cut the sticks into parts.

Haggar was going to weld it up for me but I really did not want to impose on something this big. He has little ones running around, work and his own Jeep to finish up.

J&J trailer (810) 325-1100 by Port Huron made up the axle and when I was there I asked him about welding up the frame. For what I think was a reasonable cost he did just that. Plus he fixed a couple of mis cuts that I screwed up on. Like cutting the top rail at a 45 on each end,

Dan at RuffStuff supplied the hangers and shackles. Good beefy parts. Tippy supplied the XJ springs that I flipped around to move the axle back. Kevin at Jeepers Creepers had YJ spring plates and TJ shocks.

A hitch from
http://www.locknroll.com/index.aspx
Is on it`s way.

Still have to smooth out some of the welds. Add the shocks (which will raise the ride height up) and do the floor, wiring, paint etc.

Will be using some UniStrut.
http://www.unistrut.com/index.php?P=home
in the floor and across the top rails for tie downs and storage above the trailer.

MuddyPaws gave me the idea for using boat canvas supports for the cover. It will be bowed a bit for rain runoff. A guy from Pirate gave me a link to what turned out to be a good price. 1 inch wide fiberglass strips that can be cut to length (amount of bow) then added to sockets that screw into the trailer side walls. In the basement waiting there turn.

Yes it is heavy duty but does not seem hard to roll around. I think the tires have something to do with that.

Once up to proper height the trailer will be even with the Jeep. The box even with the tub. Track width same as the Jeeps. So for runs North, to the camp ground or even an adventure run hopefully it will work out well.

Beefy
04-02-2009, 09:52 AM
You said Beefy :nate:

:woot:

Haggar
04-02-2009, 11:50 AM
Roughyl how many feet, lengthwise, of steel do you think you used?

BIGBEN
04-02-2009, 12:07 PM
looks pretty good. :thumb:


seeing i am near you right now, i will have to come over and take a look at it once i am more mobile.

jsawduste
04-02-2009, 12:42 PM
Roughly how many feet, lengthwise, of steel do you think you used?

looks pretty good. :thumb:


seeing i am near you right now, i will have to come over and take a look at it once i am more mobile.

Dad and I were talking about that yesterday, Jason. Thinking about 65 feet not counting the axle.
Roughly
4 x 5' rails
4 x 4' rails/tailgate
10 x 18' uprights
2 x 4' stringers
1 x 6' tongue

Anyone know what a foot of 2 x 2 x 3/16 weighs ? Then add the axle, springs, tires etc.

Sure Ben, anytime. You know you are always welcome. BTW how is the ankle doing ?

Haggar
04-02-2009, 02:14 PM
So, 59 feet of 2x2, and 6 ft of 3x3?

Looking at weight, I'd not go any smaller for the tongue piece.

A lighter weight option would have been to be 2" square for the deck, and 1.5" for the rails, all 0.120 wall.

2 x 2 x 0.1875 is 4.626 lbs/foot.

So, you've got 273 lbs in the frame, plus 43 more lbs for the tongue.

So, say you did the lower weight version, went and bought steel..

You'd have 33 ft of 1.5, and 26 ft of 2" or so.

That'd weigh 154 lbs + the 43 for the tongue.

So 120 lbs difference.

By the time its finished, the difference between ~600 and 720 lbs isn't really a big deal, IMO. Ought be indestructable, at least :thumb:

BIGBEN
04-02-2009, 02:29 PM
Sure Ben, anytime. You know you are always welcome. BTW how is the ankle doing ?

doing good. the sore is completely healed and the infection is gone. i go back on the 10th to find out when the screws will come back out and i will be walking again.

jsawduste
04-02-2009, 02:53 PM
doing good. the sore is completely healed and the infection is gone. i go back on the 10th to find out when the screws will come back out and i will be walking again.

Hey sounds good on the ankle. Hope thingsgo well.

I see Chesterfield Twp. in your sig. I am on the N side of 23 by Jets pizza, bowling alley etc. DW Seaton/SugarBush area.

Haggar
04-02-2009, 09:19 PM
OK, can see the pics now that I'm home, looks great!

Trucks are for girls!
04-02-2009, 09:20 PM
looking great j!

icemanii
04-02-2009, 09:45 PM
Putting any Fuel or water cans on it? Sleeper top? Looks good so far John,

jsawduste
04-02-2009, 09:56 PM
OK, can see the pics now that I'm home, looks great!

Thanks Jason and Kellie !!

Need some advice on the flooring.

In this picture you can see that the front flooring will be unsupported past the first stringer up to the first rail.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P4010004.jpg

About 2 feet to the front.

Option one is to not worry about it. Just lay the floor and be done with it.

Option two is to use something like a 2x wood

Option three is to add a section of angle iron to support the wood floor from underneath. Attached to the front rail lower.

Option four is to let the floor extend over the front rail and we simply cut around the uprights. But then you would see the floor from the outside, below the side panels. Which isn't that big a deal but I think it would look cleaner without the expose long and end grain.

The rear lower rail will support the floor in the back so it is not an issue. Just the front.

I knew in advance this would be a problem but wanted the uprights flush all the way around.

Another thought is the idea of using some UniStrut in the floor for tying junk down INSIDE the trailer. The strut is 7/8 tall and placed on top of the stringers. Plywood would have to be cut and fitted in 3 sections as it is not thick enough. 2x wood could be dadoed for the strut channel. But we get into weight and MAYBE tailgate clearance issues.

Whatta think MWers ??

jsawduste
04-02-2009, 10:18 PM
Putting any Fuel or water cans on it? Sleeper top? Looks good so far John,

RJ, I have been looking at this site
http://www.unistrut.com/index.php?P=home

They have ALL KINDS of neat channels, brackets and mounts. Nice in that Madison electric is only about 10 minutes away and they have all the parts. Big kids erecter set.

Thinking a propane tank/water jug or ? Maybe a cooler on the tongue V. The tonque is long enough some the trailer can do a full 90 to the jeep. So I haved to take that in consideration and make sure whatever goes up front will not interfer with the "turning" radius.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P4010004.jpg

In this shot you can see the fender brace/tree protector from the frame to the fender front. Fender is 3/16 and reinforced with angle iron. Tire sticks out about an inch and a half past the fender. Rather rub the tire then the fender..
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P4010008.jpg

Anyways, I was thinking this might be a good spot for a mount for ??

BIGBEN
04-03-2009, 02:01 PM
i would say the wood floor would work. 2x would be durable but add more weight. i would use plywood if i were going to do a wood floor. double stack if you want to recess the channel into the floor.

and i would use a piece of angle on the front to attach the floor to. definitely don't want it floating and i wouldn't want it sticking under the front panel either.

a cooler rack would be nice on the tongue. some more angle would make a frame that would keep it in place with a strap or two.


and i am at 25 and gratiot so i am not far at all. i will let you know when. :thumb:

jsawduste
04-03-2009, 02:37 PM
i would say the wood floor would work. 2x would be durable but add more weight. i would use plywood if i were going to do a wood floor. double stack if you want to recess the channel into the floor.

and i would use a piece of angle on the front to attach the floor to. definitely don't want it floating and i wouldn't want it sticking under the front panel either.

a cooler rack would be nice on the tongue. some more angle would make a frame that would keep it in place with a strap or two.


and i am at 25 and gratiot so i am not far at all. i will let you know when. :thumb:

With you on adding a chunk of angle up front for the floor.

A buddy of mine (pussy non-wheeler :hehe:) sugguested some of the Trex decking wood. Seems like a good idea to check out. :rov:

Picked up the UniStrut and some goodies to go with it today. I`ll take a couple pictures later.

Give me a holler when you are feeling better !!

MuddyPaws 3.0
04-03-2009, 02:43 PM
That's about the only good use for those tires. :hehe:

jsawduste
04-04-2009, 10:05 PM
Update;

Looked but was not impressed with the Trex decking. Heavy and seemed kind of limp.

Picked up the Unistrut and some mounts. Also a handull of threaded (3/8) buttons that can be added to the track at any point. Will be good for tying stuff down. My buddy is welding the mounts for me and hope to have them before the weekend is over.

Going to add a piece of 2 x 2 angle on the front lower rail for what will likely be a plywood floor.

DO NOT want any of the outdoor treated (green) plywood so will be looking for a "marine" grade of standard stuff with a good overcoat of sealer.

Will go with 3/4 on the floor and 3/8 or 1/2 on the sides. 3/4 overkill ?

Question on suspension.

In this picture
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P4010008.jpg

The trailer is setting on the XJ springs with no shocks, hand tight bushings. A good shove will bottom the tire into the fender. Nice and flexy but will stiffen up a bit with the shocks and lightly tightened spring mounts.

If I lift the trailer by the frame I can get 5-6 inches of axle droop. And would set the shocks at full extension like that.

Betting that adding a quad or any significant load might lead me tire/fender rubbing. Even with the shocks and tight bushings.

Options;
1. Longer shackles. Only 3 inchers on there now.
2. Do a SOA instead of the SUA that is currently on there now.

Thoughts ??

LuckyCharm4x4
04-05-2009, 12:02 AM
SOA will really Beefy your trailer "make it very tall and unstable" :hehe:

Add-a-leaf? it would make the trailer less flexy and might bounce more but would up the payload???
Longer shackle? will only get you about 1" more clearance. assuming you go with a 5"

~Bry

LuckyCharm4x4
04-05-2009, 12:03 AM
p.s. Move the fender higher???

~Bry

pre4runner
04-05-2009, 12:06 AM
Move the fenders, i like its height

jsawduste
04-05-2009, 12:43 AM
Moving the fenders is an option.

But I am finding the XJ springs are pretty soft. I can push the fender into the tire by simply pushing down with a little omph. Sure the shocks would help but shocks are designed to dampen the spring/load. Not add height or compensate for a weak spring.

So even with an SOA, loaded she will sink down a few inches. And might just be ok. Think what I will do is the SOA and then add a typical couple hunnert pound load and set how much it settles. A balance between load capaicity and wheel travel. I`ll betcha it works out.

Plus need to do some measuring to see how the trailer matches up with the Jeep with the loaded SOA.

Always could add a couple bumpstomps if needed also.

R&D man - R&D

Nice thing is that at this stage moving axles around is pretty easy.

Thanks for the advice guys !!

There will be a happy medium-just gotta find it.

BIGBEN
04-05-2009, 10:55 AM
how is the height of the trailer compared to the jeep? will it sit at the same height.


to leave it at the same height i think an add a leaf or maybe use a leaf pulled from another xj spring pack to stiffen up the leaf pack. or raise the fender up a little.

jsawduste
04-05-2009, 04:58 PM
how is the height of the trailer compared to the jeep? will it sit at the same height.


to leave it at the same height i think an add a leaf or maybe use a leaf pulled from another xj spring pack to stiffen up the leaf pack. or raise the fender up a little.

That is just what we were talking about at todays meeting. Adding a leaf or two to stiffen it up.

Have several options but I now think like you Ben...............:cube: :yikes:

jsawduste
04-09-2009, 02:44 PM
Been super busy with family stuff but was able to sneak in a little work on the trailer.

In this picture-Stock XJ springs. You could push the fender into the tire.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P4010008.jpg

Fact of the matter is the springs were simply to soft.

Added a couple of leaves.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P4090011.jpg

Tried a SUA but was still not happy with the tire/fender clearance.

By going to SOA bought the tire/fender clearance up and made the top rail a inch higher then the tub on the Jeep.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P4090008.jpg

Even with the extra leaves the suspension seems pretty flexy.

So by the time the floor. sides and extras get added it ought to rest pretty level.

jsawduste
04-10-2009, 09:15 PM
Hitch came today.
http://www.locknroll.com/index.aspx

Was a little disappointed. Not a big deal but the holes for the coupler portion (slips over a 3" square) were a bit loose for 1/2 and tight for 9/16. I opened them up touch so now a 9/16 grade 8 will fit just right. The zinc plating on the receiver end swing arms but pretty shitty. But all in all it seems well made. Rated for 600 lbs. tongue and 6,000 pull.

Priming the coupler and showing how it rotates around. You can see the arms on the receiver pointed up.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P4100004.jpg

Receiver and coupler together. You can see how the pin of the coupler fits into the slot on the receiver. Arms come down and locks everything together. Then the coupler portion that has the swivel rotates in the housing that bolts to the tongue..
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P4100005.jpg

In process of priming it. Time for a top coat now.

BIGBEN
06-02-2009, 07:34 PM
anything new with this?

i will be coming by next week sometime to take a look at it.

jsawduste
06-02-2009, 09:25 PM
anything new with this?

i will be coming by next week sometime to take a look at it.

C`mon by Ben.
Honestly with the soccer and school stuff. Have been able to spend as much time as I`d like. But there still has been quite a bit of progress.

jsawduste
06-12-2009, 02:00 PM
Have been puttering around with the trailer a bit.

Added a front caster for us old weak folks
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P6120001.jpg

Side view with the side panels bolted and sealed. UniStrut on top.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P6120003.jpg

Went all trough the Monroe shock catalog. Called the tech line and these were the shortest shocks they had that would give me the wheel travel I wanted.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P6120005.jpg

Here is a shot of the UniStrut. Used a couple of 90`s and welded them together for the uprights. This strut is neat stuff
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P6120006.jpg

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P6120008.jpg

Working on the floor and sides. The cedar 5/4 boards are just the right thickness for the strut. Not sure if I am going to run two or three strips down yet. Will cap the ends with 1x angle and secure the floor to the cross memebers with 3/16`s or 1/4 flat stock. Joint and cut for final width. Pen-O-Fin for the sealer

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P6120009-1.jpg

Thanks for looking.

Beefy
06-13-2009, 08:23 AM
Looks good :thumb:

LuckyCharm4x4
06-14-2009, 12:20 AM
NICE SO FAR!!!! Keep up the good work!!!! What are the top rails for?

~Bry

jsawduste
06-14-2009, 06:22 AM
NICE SO FAR!!!! Keep up the good work!!!! What are the top rails for?

~Bry

Thanks Bry for the kind words !!

Top rails will hold 2 panels connected with a piano hinge. The top panel will flip out and over and act as a base for a rooftop tent.

Of course there will be outriggers to support the flipped panel as well as jacks on the side of the trailer to level it all out.

OJ
07-28-2009, 11:50 PM
Looks great John, me likey.

86BlackedoutBronco
07-29-2009, 01:03 AM
Looks great. gives me ideas for when i mod my trailer.

icemanii
11-17-2009, 10:10 AM
Any more progress or updates John?

jsawduste
11-17-2009, 10:51 AM
Any more progress or updates John?

Right now RJ, I have it wrapped up tight in tarps for the winter.

But the electrical is in and a few other updates.

Before the uprights were bolted to the top rail. Changed it so the rails can move anyplace I need them.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P8040021.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P8040023.jpg

Made up an switch box with outlets and pilot lights. Used a Deep Cycle battery mounted on the tongue. Switch box mounted just above. Added an outlet at the tail also. Picture does not show the switches on the box to turn each circuit on and off.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P8040028.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P8040026.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P8040027.jpg

Used the battery and fridge http://www.edgestar.com/products/fridgefreeze/fp630.asp at the Pig Gig and then the next couple days in St. Helen and there was still enough voltage that stuff stayed frozen. Also a couple camping trips with the family and all worked well.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P5120005.jpg

Still a few things to do. Have the materials and will putter with it during the winter.

Hoping to drive to some events next year instead of trailering behind the pickup.

Ridin Dirty
11-17-2009, 12:12 PM
Who did you loan the trailer to? I like their Jeep.

icemanii
11-18-2009, 10:13 AM
What did the dimensions of the inside of the box end up being John?

And how long is the tongue? You going to put any storage on the front of the box?

jsawduste
11-18-2009, 06:32 PM
What did the dimensions of the inside of the box end up being John?

And how long is the tongue? You going to put any storage on the front of the box?

RJ,
the insides worked out to be 4 x 6 x 20-21 high.
The tongue was around 5 feet or so. With roughly 3 feet extending. Enough so that the trailer can a little more then 90*
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P5120009.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn156/jsawduste/P5120007.jpg

The battery box just clears the rear bumper on the Jeep. More storage on the tongue would be tough if I want to keep the angle.

In front and on top of the fenders is room. Have plans to mount stuff up there.

Once done, the top will have a flat platform that extends to around 7 x 8 in jut a couple minutes.

jsawduste
11-19-2009, 02:01 PM
Who did you loan the trailer to? I like their Jeep.

Some old fart guy. :old: Says he is glad he aired down as the speed bumps at the soccerfield are hell. :rofl:

:cheers: